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As a licensed esthetician and spa founder/owner, I get asked a lot of questions by our clients and many times I hear similar topics come up repeatedly. One thing I get asked quite frequently is about the use of oil in products and on the body, particularly for people who have oily or problematic skin.
First let me explain a few basic facts…
There is a difference between oils and essential oils. Essential oils rarely cause break-outs or interfere with the skin’s natural functions, and in skin care products they are usually in small concentration. Carrier oils like jojoba, almond, avocado, safflower, and sesame oil are very different from essential oils, and are used either alone or as a base for other ingredients. Many products on the market are oil emulsions. An oil emulsion-based product has a combination of water-based ingredients and oil-based ingredients, which are then “forced” together to create the product.
Let’s talk about how and when to use oils on your skin.
On The Face
Oily-skinned people should usually use water-based products on their skin, particularly products that remain on the skin like moisturizers and masks. Combination to dry skin types can use emulsions or products that contain certain oils to maintain hydration on the skin. A cleanser that has some oil in it can actually draw out impurities by melting away dirt and oil on the skin and rinsing clean.
My favorite cleanser is Bioelements Sensitive Skin Cleanser, which has an olive oil base along with safflower, hazelnut, jojoba oils and lavender essential oil. This is amazing for dry and combination skin types, and I have also gotten great results for oily or congested skins because the oil in the skin “sticks” to the oil in the cleanser and then disappears without stripping the skin dry. I would not use this on acneic skin because I would rather address the bacterial issues, but on blackheads and congestion it works well and I combine this with a deep cleanser for best results.
For moisturizers, a product that contains some oils helps to preserve and protect your skin like a natural barrier. One of my favorites is Bioelements Sleepwear, which is an emollient crème that contains cranberry seed oil to protect the skin and promote elasticity, bergamot oil which is antiseptic, and jojoba oil which is healing and hydrating. These oils give the skin a supple, soft feel and protect your natural moisture barrier, like a skin band-aid. It also contains a variety of amazing anti-aging ingredients.
Another favorite moisturizer is Eminence Organics Fire Thorn Treatment, which is a rich cream for dry skin types that contains Firethorn oil for firming, corn germ oil to enrich and nourish the skin, and grape seed oil which is an anti-oxidant and moisturizing ingredient.
For oilier skin types, Bioelements created a lotion-gel version of the Sleepwear cream called Oil Control Sleepwear, and it contains only the bergamot oil which is antiseptic, as well as the other anti-aging ingredients. Another light moisturizer for oily skin types is Eminence Organics Tomato Oil-Control Gel, which contains jojoba oil to nourish and hydrate, and lavender essential oil which is anti-bacterial and anti-microbial.
If you have drier skin, look for something that has higher concentrations of oils and emollient ingredients, things you will see higher up on the ingredient listing. If you have oilier skin, make sure oils are lower on the ingredient list, and look for essential oils like lavender which kill bacteria.
Don’t assume that oil is always a bad thing, even for oily skin! Many oils have healing properties that are effective and helpful ingredients in a product.
On The Body
The needs of the skin on your body is quite different from your face often times. Since most people shower every day, and usually in hotter water than is recommended, moisturizing after the shower or bath is an excellent way to preserve your skin and prevent dehydration. The ideal time to moisturize your body is right after the shower, when you have lighted patted down your skin but it is still warm and moist. Picture that your skin is like a sponge…have you ever tried picking up a spill on your counter with a dry sponge? Doesn’t work very well, does it? The sponge needs to be slightly moist in order to effectively pick up moisture, and your skin is the sponge in this analogy.
A few of my favorite body lotions and creams are our own Skin Haven Triple C & E Body Lotion, which is a light but hydrating product containing hazelnut oil as the main carrier/barrier ingredient, avocado and evening primrose and and jojoba and kukui nut oils for increased skin hydration, rose hips seed oil to repair skin’s natural moisture, carrot oil which has vitamin A to ensure fresh and youthful skin layers, and lemon and orange essential oils for a uplifting aromatherapeutic scent. Eminence Organics Mandarin Grapefruit Body Butter, an emollient and delicious product containing jojoba oil which has one of the best absorption rates for hydrating the skin. Eminence Organics Mimosa Champagne Body Lotion is a lighter product containing orange essential oils which are detoxifying, calming, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory AND support collagen formation and regeneration, and contains avocado oil which is an anti-oxidant rich in proteins, amino acids, and vitamins A, D, & E which regenerate skin cells.
The Bioelements Vitalization line has a rich body cream that contains botanical oils such as Apricot Kernel, Canola, Olive, Rice Bran, Grape, Black Currant, Sunflower Seed Oil, Bergamot, Cardamom, Clove. These ingredients provide moisture, add softness and suppleness, provide radiance to the skin, and create an aromatic experience, especially on warm skin.
Here in Los Angeles and throughout the country, we tend to live in a dry environments, with forced air on throughout the year, whether it be air conditioning or central heat. Because this can be rough on our skin, remembering to infuse your skin with moisture to replenish what the environment has depleted is very important. And remember, don’t always assume that oil in your product is a bad thing.
Sharōn Ronen is a licensed esthetician and the founder/CEO of Skin Haven Spa Studio & WellSpa in Los Angeles. Ms. Ronen has been recently been published in Day Spa, Skin Inc., and American Spa Magazines, and several blogs and e-zines and is also available for spa consulting services. For more information log onto www.skinhaven.com or call 323.658.skin. For more information, visit SkinHaven.com, leave your comments or send in your questions.